Not in my opinion. But they are very easy to repair. Expoxy holds up the best but that takes special equipment. There are a lot of finishes in between.
A two part auto type clear cote is closer to epoxy. Some grades are better than others. You can spray that yourself. If you botch it, you can re-do it. If I had the money the professional epoxy is the hardest.
I like Tru Oil with Bee;s wax (several coats) applied to protect it ... If by chance you get a ding in it you can re apply the oil on that one spot and fill it in so its not noticeable ... The Bee's wax to protect it really works amazingly well and looks really good ... I have a Laminated Stock I did with just Bee's wax and its is really nice, get a lot of compliment on it ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
I have finished several of my stock with Tru Oil. The best part is if you get a scratch it is easy to fix. Just add a little more Tru Oil and rub. Just like new again. With other finished it has to be refinished to really get it back. I do like shiny finishes and you can get that if you put on enough coats. It will fix scratches on Polyurethane finishes too. Just keep on putting what you need to smooth out the finish.
I had an old stock that was sanded down to raw wood, I put 2 coats of stain on it and started applying Bee's wax until I got the look I was pleased with ... I will try and find the pictures of it and post them because it truly looked amazing and was very economical to do ... I used a car buffer ( not one of the little orbital BS ones ) to get the luster polished up ... I gave to my Nephew, the last time I saw it the thing still looked like new and its probably 80 years old ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
I've used Tru Oil for years with excellent results. Takes some time to apply but the results are outstanding.
Does it hold up : yes. If u want it shiny keep applying coats, aprox 15 to 20, and let dry between. For finishing pumice followed by rottenstone. For extreme shine buff with Maguire's ultimate polish but make certain the oil is cured for a month or two, it gets harder with age. There is alot written about it. And there r other oils for example tung oil. The oils are very easy to repair, though to get a good finish it can take alot of time.
How durable is the beeswax? If a person needs to recoat with tru oil what do you use to remove the beeswax?
Ten coats of Tung Oil with a dash of Japan Dryer every day, and you will have a superb finish. Wipe on, let set for 30 minutes, wipe off, then hang up for 24 hrs., ten times, then polish and wax. Very easy.
The bee's wax is for the shine and protect the finish, you can rub the oil right over it and re coat with it later to increase the luster ... I have seen where you just re apply the Bee's wax if there is no obvious gouge into the wood ... WPT ... (YAC) ...
Tru Oil has worked great for me, secret is many coats,(10) over many days,(10-15) let dry, steel wool, tac-cloth,then another coat. Apply with fingers, not rags or brush. After weeks of drying, 0000 steel wool and Johnson Paste Wax. Here is picture of beat-up GI stock refinished with Tru-Oil, holds up very well in all weather condtions, in wood or on the firing line.