Epoxy finish pointers

Discussion in 'Trapshooting Forum - Americantrapshooter.com' started by rickyd, Apr 17, 2016.

  1. rickyd

    rickyd Active Member

    I have been refinishing stocks for a long time and I am considering going into the epoxy world. Does anyone have some advice on using epoxy?
     
  2. 7dot5

    7dot5 Member

    Don't use true epoxy on gunstocks myself as from my limited experience with it is very difficult to remove and / or repair. I have instead used some multi-part catalyzed urethanes ( Axalta Imron / RKW ) on walnut furniture as they are (somewhat) easier to repair than epoxy and are fairly durable. Are you currently using catalyzed urethanes but want to move towards a "bowling pin" finish ?
     
  3. rickyd

    rickyd Active Member

    7dot5
    I have a lot of experience with all but epoxy. They all work the way intended. My favorite finish now is the multi-part auto finishes. You can repair them but they can be brittle. Despite the difficulty in repairing, the epoxy the hardness is very attractive.

    Thanks for the response.
     
  4. 7dot5

    7dot5 Member

    If you are looking for hardness, you may want to check out the Sherwin Williams pro-industrial high performance epoxy line. They used to have a crystal clear version that we sprayed which also can carry tint. Hard full gloss exterior and chemical resistance rated with ability to fast build on wood. Most SW dealers can get you a free quart sample if you have a business card.
     
  5. Smokintom

    Smokintom Mega Poster Founding Member

    Never used epoxy but did a couple in lacquer some time ago. Beautiful results is an understatement.
     
  6. rickyd

    rickyd Active Member

    Lacquer cracks and is cheap. Great for furniture. jmho
     
  7. rickyd

    rickyd Active Member

    7dot5
    Interesting you mentioned spraying. I have heard spraying was high pressure. I was considering hand application. Thanks for the SW.
     
  8. 7dot5

    7dot5 Member

    Here's the URL for the SW product. You could definitely put it on by hand or by brush but you would need flow it out evenly somehow. Its re-coatable and self priming so layering it should not be a problem. You also may want to consider a cheap HP airless spray set up that can do 2500 psi at the tip. GL with it.
    http://www.sherwin-williams.com/document/PDS/en/035777436585/