REM 1100 thread size?

Anyone know the thread size of the nut that tightens the stock to the receiver. It's an older model if that helps.
I want to replace the high hat looking one with two standard nuts and use them in a jamb nut configuration.
This would let me to shorten the LOP further.

 

There is a factory hex type nut that was available I think in later models and tightens with lock washer. Double nutting is not necessary. Loose stock on 1100 has never been an issue that I am aware of. How are you going to hold one while you tighten the other inside the stock anyway.

 

I do not have a factory stock, it's a synthetic stock and i do believe there is room if i modify a wrench. My synthetic stock does loosen up and will rotate from time to time. I have already shortened stock to 12.5'' LOP and would like to shorten a bit more.
I'll check out what you said. But still would like to know thread size.
BTW I just shortened my Perazzi to 11.5'' due to my spinal cord injury and unable to hold arms out for any length of time. Big difference when I shot 14.5'' LOP.!
I'm able to do this cause my head can not bend down due to all the steel in my neck and the rib is 4.5'' high. So I can shoot an extremely short stock since there is no conflict with my right hand or thumb being my head is so high. Weight of gun is my biggest concern. My Perazzi tips the scales less then 7#s.

 

Rook,
Don't know if this will help but I did a little surfing and found this. From a place called AI&P Tactical.
They sell that "tube style" nut. They called it a deep well. I know you don't need a nut but it does show the thread size of it.

I searched for 1100 tube nut and under 1100 they have this. I "assume" that they put it on there to show it could be used for the 11-87's also.

This is part F201820 and 12ga, and fits 11-87; 11-87 Super Mag Remington Shotguns.

ACTION SPRING TUBE NUT (11/16x32 DEEPWELL).

 

YOU BE THE MAN...FLYER GUY!

 

Even though Flyersarebest gave me the thread size, now no one I've contacted has or even heard of that size. Not Fastenal, Boltsdepot nobody. My little mom pop hardware contacted their supplier and they said they can no longer get that size, it's the 32 tpi that's the problem not the 11/16s. Plenty of 11/16x24.

Now I did find a nut and bolt place in NY that had an 11/16x32 Tap. I jumped on that like a duck on a June bug. Should be here Monday.
May even be better cause I'll drill out a piece of flat metal that is thinner then most standard nuts giving me more room between nut and recoil pad. Then thread that and shape to fit socket... metric or SAE ? LOL
If I need more room I could even cut off the end of the threaded tube a bit.

I just love this kind of stuff

 

Now watch Flyer guy post where to find that nut after I posted the above.

 

Sorry Rook, After searching for about an hour I came up empty too.

I'm not the engineer you are, not even a halfazz mechanic, but what if you purchased another one of those "deep well" nuts and cut them both down on a band saw? Or maybe a shop in your area could cut them for you. You would have the retaining nut and a jam nut.

Clean up the threads with that tap and sand smooth both faces where you cut and you would have two shorter nuts.

Just a WAG but it might work

Good Luck Amigo

 

I thought something similar to what your saying. The problem is this deep well nut is perfectly round and one end has a screw driver type slot. Once that end is cut off there's no way to tighten down. Was thinking about cutting it down then find a larger nut that would slip over and weld it so I could use a socket. But now since I found the ''tap'' and I already drilled the 5/8'' hole to cut the 32 TPI threads. I'll just wait for USPS to bring ''tap''.
How much do I owe you for that hour? Now remember, I'm so broke I can't even afford to pay attention.

 

No charge
Us old pigeon shooters have to look out for one another.

 

How about using a nut with a smaller diameter hole but enough meat on it to drill out to 5/8" so you can tap it? That way you don't have to shape that piece of metal to fit a socket

 

I tried exactly what you said yesterday on a 5/8 nut. Problem was once the brand new 5/8'' drill bit came into contact with the threads which were just a frog hair smaller in diameter then the drill bit diameter, all hell broke loose. It set up a vibration that the chuck kept falling out. I guess a drill bit is not meant to operate in that environment. I'm sure if there were no threads for the cutting edge to hit like in a 9/16 tube, there would be no problem.
That's when I got a piece of flat stock and drilled a much smaller hole and then drilled the larger 5/8'' that went thru it like hot butter.
I do like your way of thinking though.

 

Yeah, I know just enough to get myself in trouble.
If my pal still had his Bridgeport I'm sure he could lock the right size nut in the vice and bore a 5/8 hole in it. Just need the right tools.

Good Luck Rook. Keep us updated

 

''BRIDGEPORT, BRIDGEPORT, MY COUNTRY FOR A BRIDGEPORT''

Still waiting for the 11/16 x 32 tap. In the mean time playing around with some 3/8'' Delrin I have laying around. Ya I know it's not as strong as the 3/16'' steel that I drilled. But they do make gears out of the stuff other then ribs. Now I'm not talking gears like a ''ring & pinion in a F350 Dana 60.

Lubricated the 5/8'' drill bit and drilled slow...that Delrin acts weird when it gets hot. I'll probably hand turn the tap when I get it'.
Will it work to fasten stock securely enough? But the knowledge is more then worth my little time.

 

The correct tap drill for 11/16"- 32 threads is 21/32". ....Your 5/8" drill is .031" smaller.

Be careful using your new tap because the threading will be more difficult and possibly cause tear-out. ...Delrin should tap easier than steel.

 

One chart I looked at did list both sizes. My thinking was that the 5/8 would be a little deeper in the threads? I'll try the 5/8'' first on the Delrin and see how it works?
Might just have to order a 21/32. Thanks for the info.

 

Checked with ''McMaster-Carr'' and on their ''Drill bit tap chart'' when doing a 32 tpi 11/16 go with the 21/32'' drill bit.
Will order one today!
Thank guys for your help

 

Here is the main problem for me to cut the stock even shorter then what it is now. The stock bolt the way it is designed protrudes too far out.
Once I get the tap I'll make my own stock nut. I need to cut stock even shorter then what you see now so I can raise gun to shoulder and hold that position with as little effort as possible. Then install recoil pad with no conflict with nut.
As the stock is now with no recoil pad I can bring up gun perfectly. With pad on now LOP is around 12.5'' before I modify the nut.
With the way my head is straight up and can not extend arms out, I need an extremely short LOP.
One day soon I'll post X-ray of neck with all the steel and those long screws...amazes me every time I see it.

 

I'm not familiar with an 1100, so I'm working in my mind.

How much thread engagement (length) is there with the original stock nut? .....How much thread engagement is sufficient?

If the new nut is too thin (height) will there be enough thread engagement to hold the stock securely?

I admire your determination to overcome your physical limitations in order to keep shooting! ...I enjoy following your projects.

 

As the old saying goes ''The best laid plans of mice and men''.
After receiving tap and drill bit I took a 3/4'' x 1'' bolt, located dead center on top of bolt. Drilled a piolet hole for the tap. Place new drill bit in drill and drilled far enough to tap just the head of the bolt. What was cool was that as the drill penetrated the bolt head the 1'' long threaded stud was completely free of bolt head.
The bolt head now was a 15/16 nut with no threads. Just the pilot hole.
Now just to drill out for tap and tap the threads so this new reinvented nut will thread on to the action tube...SO I THOUGHT!

While I was patting myself on the back, I took nut over to action tube to check fit...WTF! The nut slid over threads with a few thousands clearance on each side!
Now at this point I was seriously thinking of turning this gun into a tomato stake.
Problem was my 1960 something 1100 was made with a different size action tube.

This morning after a restless sleep and another cup of coffee I had one of my coffee induced visions while fumbling that damn nut.

Since this nut is just a few thousands larger then the threads, wonder how close would it be to sliding over the original long Rem nut?

Low and behold, it was just a frog hair smaller! I chamfered the edge of the Rem nut. Heated the new home grown nut and placed on top of the Rem nut.
Inserted both nuts into vice. Stuck a 4' long pipe on vice handle and applied a tremendous amount of force at which point the new nut started to slide over the Rem nut. That's when the screw in the vice bent LOL.
Next thing I did was to call a friend and explain my problem.
If this works, after the new nut is slid down to bottom of the Rem nut, I'll cut off extra length of Rem nut which will allow a even shorter LOP.

Bring that thing over here and after we have lunch at one of my favorite restaurants, I'll press that on for ya.

 

Took the nut over to my friends house and he finished pressing the 15/16 nut onto the factory action tube nut. Next was to cut off the factory nut to a shorter length allowing me to install recoil pad for a shorter LOP.
Once the new nut was cut down it exposed the inside of the action tube enabling to see the spring retainer.
The 15/16 socket really snugs the stock in place.

 

Sorry Rook,
I'm going to email that company and tell them that they should have an * next to the number 1100 explaining that the threads on the older guns are different

.

 

Nothing to be sorry about! I read the same thing and would have done the same thing.
Appreciate all your words of encouragement from you and so many others that helped me out in some very trying times.

 

Finally DONE with nut alteration and installed recoil pad. Went from 12.5'' to 12'' LOP.
Next the barrel will be sent to Briley for bluing.

 

Glad to see you got it together! Thanks for posting the odyssey as well. I feel like I just spent half a day in the garage trying to create a solution only to have it fail, then finding an even better solution. AND it only took me a few minutes here on my computer, my hands are still clean and my back doesn't hurt...very satsifying, thanks!

 

Even though the LOP is only 12'' the stock is not too short. Being that I can not extend neck and head any further forward I have to pull gun back towards shoulder.
Tip of my nose is actually over thumb which would have been a problem if it was not for the 4.5'' high rib and high comb.
Judging by the pic and the way the gun feels, I will now need to move comb a substantial amount forward.

 

OK, moved comb forward 1''. The modified Gray coil recoil hardware that holds the comb stayed the same. Just moved the comb.

I reinforced the front rib. I did not have enough rib material for the rib section that comes down to barrel to bend a 1'' foot section out to solder along barrel.
It was just butt soldered to barrel. So what I did was to take a small left over piece of rib and bend a 1'' foot up and 1'' foot parallel with barrel.
The foot along barrel was soldered, the one along the angel rib was mechanically fastened. Drilled and tapped then threaded in a socket screw
The surfaces were just too convoluted IMO for a good connection. Besides, it's cool looking.